A visit to the village of Tenterden in Kent over the summer to ride the heritage Kent and East Sussex Railway
Earlier in the year, we set out on a new adventure to experience the joy of travelling along a selection of heritage railway lines across the South East. Our first destination was the Chinnor and Princes Risborough Railway in Buckinghamshire – a charming journey that offered the chance to visit a nearby village and ride a beautiful steam locomotive through the countryside. By August, with a few days to ourselves in glorious sunshine, we embarked on another Brown Sign adventure: a visit to the Kent and East Sussex Railway, staying in the village of Tenterden and travelling by diesel locomotive to Bodiam. The route crossed the county borders between Kent and Sussex, offering a leisurely passage through landscapes steeped in history and character. It was a journey that perfectly captured the spirit of heritage travel – unhurried, nostalgic, and rich in the quiet beauty of rural England.
The Kent & East Sussex Railway runs for ten and a half miles between the villages of Tenterden in the north and Bodiam in the south – a light passenger line offering spectacular views across the Rother Valley, an area of natural beauty. Originally part of a longer route between Headcorn and Robertsbridge, it was the first “light railway” to be constructed, capable of using full‑sized steam locomotives while operating on steeper gradients at lower speeds. It also played a role during the Second World War using the curves of the track for an ingenious weapon against invading forces. Today, the line runs throughout most of the year, with a fifty‑minute journey each way that allows passengers to experience another wonderful example of Britain’s preserved heritage railways – lovingly restored and maintained so that future generations can continue to enjoy the romance of rural travel.
All aboard the morning service to Bodiam
Our visit began in Tenterden, where we found a room above a pub for a couple of days – the perfect base to soak up a little of rural life before our railway adventure. Arriving on a sunny Friday afternoon, we checked into The Woolpack, a charming pub‑hotel offering cosy rooms right in the heart of town. The high street had an unexpectedly “American” feel to it — wide, open, and lined with an assortment of evening haunts, including a jazz bar just a short walk away. Not usually the sort of activity I’d gravitate toward, but when in Kent, you take a sip of a fruity cocktail and listen to the blues. After an evening of live music and a little too much alcohol, we found our beds and prepared for the scenic railway journey awaiting us the next morning.
We rose early and ambled down the high street towards the railway station, the warmth of the summer already settling over Tenterden. The heat had prompted a switch to diesel services to reduce the risk of wildfires, and so the familiar scent of steam was absent – replaced instead by the steady, idling hum of the diesel locomotive waiting at the platform. The station promised a few diversions later in the day, including a small railway museum tucked just off the platform, but with little time to spare we stepped aboard the first morning service to Bodiam. The carriages were lovely, dressed in authentic period décor and carrying a gentle sense of nostalgia, even if they lacked a soupçon of deeper historical detail. Precisely on time, the shrill whistle of the platform staff cut through the air, followed by the familiar shunt of the engine nudging us away from the station. A soft ripple travelled through the carriages as we eased forward. Our adventure for the day had begun.
The line passes through the Rother Valley, crossing the county border between Kent and Sussex. On a hot summer’s day the landscape felt a little parched, the fields washed in muted gold, yet it still offered magnificent views across the countryside. As the train approached the end of the line, the ruins of Bodiam Castle appeared in the distance – a striking silhouette against the haze of the afternoon. Along the way I learned one of the more unusual qualities of this railway: its use during the Second World War. The curve of the track provided different firing angles, and its proximity to the English Channel offered an ingenious solution – a mounted turret positioned safely inland, hidden from naval bombardment yet able to defend against invasion. Today, only a few signs at one of the smaller stations hint at that history. It’s the sort of story that invites imagination, and you can’t help but think how wonderful it would be to restore that curve of the line, placing a turret on a carriage so visitors could better appreciate its wartime purpose. A small glimpse into the past, brought gently back to life.
Arriving at Bodiam offered a welcome moment to step off the train, stretch our legs, and explore the heritage station. It’s a charming example of its era, complete with the familiar comforts of a tea shop, a small carriage museum, and a period‑authentic waiting room that feels wonderfully preserved. When the scheduled departure time arrived, we switched seats and began the return journey towards Tenterden. The heat of the day had tempered any enthusiasm for wandering the fields or exploring the castle ruins in great detail, but seeing them from the train was still a pleasure. An hour later we stepped off once more, enjoying a cool drink in the spacious tea room set slightly away from the main platform. The absence of a steam locomotive was a little bittersweet, though entirely understandable given the conditions. As heritage lines go, it left a positive impression – a gentle, enjoyable experience that invites a return visit when the sun is less ferocious and the promise of steam adds that extra touch of magic.
Things to do at Tenterden Station
The wait between trains at Tenterden offered a little time to explore the station and some of the small delights available to visitors. A charming model railway sits to one side, complete with the option to drop 50p into the slot and bring it to life with lights and sound. I couldn’t resist. Nearby, a spacious tea room provides a welcome place to pause, offering a variety of snacks – even a couple of gluten‑free options – for those in need of a mid‑journey treat. One of the highlights was a small, free‑to‑enter museum just a short walk across the tracks. Built in memory of Colonel Stephens, the pioneering figure behind this light railway in the 19th century, it’s an intimate little space filled with artefacts and stories from the line’s early days. You do find yourself side‑stepping occasionally to avoid bumping into fellow visitors, but that closeness adds to its charm. It made for a pleasant distraction and a lovely glimpse into the history that shaped the railway we were travelling on.
It wasn’t the largest railway museum, but it offered a pleasant way to expand the visit beyond simply riding the locomotive, adding a little history of the area and the line. A few second‑hand railway magazines and books were available to buy at the end if you were so inclined. By this stage I had lost Anna, who had politely declined the option of exploring a small carriage museum in favour of a cold drink and a fresh breeze. To my delight, a small fan inside kept me cool for a moment before I headed back out into the heat. Walking back up the hill towards Tenterden provided one last opportunity to capture a photograph of the locomotive and platforms at eye level – always a unique treat on heritage lines, where the track is to be respected but, in the absence of electrification between services, offers a wonderful vantage point for a little photography. It was a gentle way to end the experience, a final pause before leaving the station behind and carrying the day’s memories with us.
Final Thoughts
Earlier in the year we set out to explore a few new heritage railway routes across the south east, and the Kent and East Sussex line was one of them. It certainly delivered a memorable experience. It was a little bittersweet to arrive and not be greeted by a steam locomotive, but in its absence the day offered a different kind of railway adventure. What it lacked in the familiar smell of steam and soot in the hair, it made up for with lovely views of the countryside and an authentically preserved atmosphere at the stations we explored in greater detail. In a way, it gives us the perfect excuse to return – to experience the thrill of steam on a cooler day, perhaps avoiding one of the hottest summers on record for that truly traditional journey. I love these heritage railway adventures; there is something delightfully charming about sitting in a beautiful wooden carriage, wandering through an old‑fashioned period station, and escaping the modern world for an hour or two.
It’s a gentle kind of nostalgia, and one that lingers long after the train has left the platform. There are certainly more “exciting” ways to spend a day, but this is a wonderful example of the experience economy at its best – creating an environment that feels relaxed, elegant, and quietly sedate. For the price of a room in a pub, two railway tickets, and a cold drink here and there, we enjoyed a delightfully period Brown Sign Adventure on an old‑fashioned railway only a short drive from London. Not quite the full steam experience we had hoped for, but memorable in its own way for offering something different The nostalgia of diesel locomotives isn’t as evocative as the romance of steam, yet they remain an important part of the nation’s railway history. For an afternoon, we were able to step into that world – a small slice of heritage, gently preserved, and thoroughly enjoyable.
Thank you for reading.
