A morning spent exploring the ruins of Conwy Castle.
In the north of Wales, perched on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Irish Sea, stand the ruins of 13th‑century Conwy Castle. Built by Edward I during his conquest of Wales, the fortress served for centuries as a strategic stronghold through conflicts between the English and the Welsh before finally falling into disuse in the 17th century. Today, it remains a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a striking example of medieval military architecture, its towers and curtain walls rising above the coastal village below. With views stretching across the Irish Sea and the River Conwy, the castle continues to draw visitors who come to wander its ramparts and take in its commanding presence on the skyline. It’s yet another reminder of the rich, layered history of this nation, a place once built for power and defence transformed but its story still very much alive.
There are plenty of these ruins scattered across Wales – castles abandoned in the late Middle Ages, abbeys left to crumble after the Reformation. During our Brown Sign Adventure in March, we visited Cymer Abbey, a quiet reminder of how history can be reduced to a few walls and foundations in a field hidden from sight. Conwy Castle, by contrast, has far more of its structure still standing, yet it remains an exposed, open space, surrendered to the elements. On a cold, fresh morning, it felt desolate to walk among the ruins, a light sprinkling of rain drifting into rooms that were once bedchambers and banqueting halls. And yet, even in its emptiness, the place stirs the imagination, inviting you to picture how it once looked, once sounded, once lived. It may seem like just another ruined castle, and Wales has no shortage of them, but when you pause for a moment, you can’t help but feel overwhelmed by the weight of the stories held within these weathered stones.
Stepping into the past
Situated in the town centre, our arrival by car had an almost ethereal quality, parking directly outside a castle is one of those surreal quirks of modern life. Conwy Castle is overseen by Cadw, its welcome centre offering the usual comforts before your exploration of the ruins begins outside. The pathway up to the castle overlooks the harbour below, and once you’ve pushed through the brisk wind at the entrance, the sudden wash of colour is overwhelming. The sandy grey stone contrasts beautifully with the rich green embankments as you step inside. You can follow a map to trace the different walkways and towers, or simply let that spirit of discovery guide you at your own pace. It feels evocative to peer through a ruined window or an old doorway, imagining the rooms that once existed there – or what remains of them today.
Walking through the outer and inner wards, you eventually arrive at the East Barbican, a small courtyard overlooking the suspension and railway bridges that cross the river. It’s a peaceful spot to pause and reflect on your visit, offering a different visual perspective from the interior wards. From here, two staircases lead up to the Chapel and the King’s Tower – the first more intact, providing a sheltered space to sit and look out over the town below. The King’s Tower, by contrast, demands a steep climb, but the reward is worth the effort: a wonderful vantage point from which to capture the castle in its entirety. As with many castle ruins, the tall, narrow spiral staircases offer minimal passing space, but the sweeping views from the top more than justify the ascent.
A view from below
Descending by the north‑west tower, you return to the outer ward, close to where the old kitchens and stables once stood and just across from the site of the great hall. Little remains of these spaces now, but if you step over the low wall into the interior, you’ll find an elevated wooden platform with a set of medieval stocks perched on top. We couldn’t resist pausing our historical wanderings to play the part of a captive for a moment. I was perfectly content to be “imprisoned” in the modern day, but even I can admit that my city‑living sensibilities would have struggled with the cold, rugged climate of a 16th‑century winter within these walls. The stocks sit appropriately close to the prison tower, there isn’t much more to see there, but it offers a small, light‑hearted diversion amid the heavier history of the castle.
Many of the rooms inside the castle have long since crumbled into history, with only their foundations visible in the outer ward. You can “step into” the kitchen, for example, but it’s little more than an empty outline, a space stripped of the smells, sounds, and warmth that define the kitchens at Hampton Court. A small handful of rooms and restored windows remain, most notably in the Chapel Tower, where a lovely stained‑glass window looks out over the river. But for the most part, your experience relies on imagination, piecing together what the castle might have been like in its heyday. The opportunity to climb the towers and explore the walkways above, however, is a real treat – a step above what many similar ruins can offer. What remains has been carefully preserved for visitors to enjoy, with a few necessary limitations, yet it still provides remarkable access for such an ancient structure.
Final Thoughts
As we made our way back down the path toward the visitor centre, the castle’s steep walls rising above us and the Welsh flag fluttering from the tower, it was hard not to feel a quiet sense of gratitude that it continues to stand, and remains open for exploration in the modern day. A formidable structure once abandoned to ruin, it has endured centuries of weather and neglect, yet still retains enough of its character to be a genuinely fascinating place to wander. It may be a ruin, and Wales has no shortage of similar sites, but Conwy Castle holds a commanding presence on the skyline as you arrive, passing beneath its walls to enter the town. In that way, it echoes the great fortified gateways of York and Canterbury, reminders of a past that still shapes the places we move through today.
This small nation, with its fierce protection of history and character, offered two explorers from England a fresh perspective, and a deeper appreciation for the effort that goes into preserving places like this. Conwy Castle had all the amenities you might expect: a lovely gift shop, clean facilities, and a welcoming team ready to share a little context before you step inside. But what I enjoyed most was the freedom to explore at our own pace. To each their own, of course, but I’ve always preferred being left to my own thoughts, letting the atmosphere settle around me. Standing atop the King’s Tower with no one else in sight, I could almost feel that sense of grandeur and solitude in equal measure. It was an enjoyable visit, and a wonderful reason to spend time in this corner of Wales.
Thank you for reading.
Brown Sign Chronicles 
Leave a comment